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View Full Version : Vapor Flask ...Need Some Help



doghouse
12-01-2014, 05:38 AM
Hi guys, any Vapor Flask owners out there? I got mine recently and seem to be having an issue. Basically when I first build my nickel coil, the VF seems to read the resistance fine and the temp control works perfectly. As soon as I put the device down and come back to it, the ohms have dropped and the temp shoots up within a second or two which pushes the watts down to compensate (goes from 13.5 watts down to between 3 to 6 watts). At the point if I take the atty off, let it cool down and put it back on the device and select the option for "new coil", it starts to work fine again until I put the mod down for a few mins. Basically, the chip does not seem to retain the original resistance of the coil.

I've tried several builds between 0.1 to .2 ohms (set at between 12 - 14 watts / 450 degrees). I've done contact and non-contact coils and tried both the Rose v2 and the Squape Reloaded which both produce the same result. I think this is an issue with the software because other people seem to be experiencing similar issues. The one other possibility is that I don't have the "right" nickel wire. I'm basically using 99.9% pure nickel wire which to me should be the same as the NI200 sold by Temco (I got mine from Lightning Vapes to build NR-R coils for the Diver) but maybe I'm missing something.

Anyone experience this issue or have any suggestions? Much appreciated, thanks!

KVapes
12-08-2014, 06:54 PM
I am using 28 gauge nickel wire from "vapowire" called "Pure Nickel" and everything works fine on Vapor Shark rDNA 40.
Currently vaping using a micro coil 10 wraps around 3mm drill which equals to 0.17Ohms set to 14.5 watts @ 410F. Never experienced any issues after dna 40 wakes up from deep sleep.
I would try a different nickel wire and then contact VF with issue.
Hope it works out for you, its a totally new experience when you get the nickel build nailed.

iCGM
12-18-2014, 06:46 PM
I had a hard time building it straight up getting .25 - .32 builds with 30ga wire, temperature protection hitting almost instantly. Wasn't good, tried that 3 times, no go... 1 was coil problem, other was wicking problem...

Took a step back, tried twisting the wire, tried building it again and bam! Magic! .12 coil, temp working like a champ!! On my Magma, the temp doesn't even pass 350F (set to 410) and apes like a champ. Just built my Lemo the same with twisted 10 wraps, hitting .16 and again working really well.

So either your board is faulty, or something in the build is tripping the chip. I know my Veritas isn't playing well with the ni200 as it's a finicky build.

Wish you luck, keep us posted!

Wultan
01-08-2015, 06:34 PM
Hi guys, any Vapor Flask owners out there? I got mine recently and seem to be having an issue. Basically when I first build my nickel coil, the VF seems to read the resistance fine and the temp control works perfectly. As soon as I put the device down and come back to it, the ohms have dropped and the temp shoots up within a second or two which pushes the watts down to compensate (goes from 13.5 watts down to between 3 to 6 watts). At the point if I take the atty off, let it cool down and put it back on the device and select the option for "new coil", it starts to work fine again until I put the mod down for a few mins. Basically, the chip does not seem to retain the original resistance of the coil.

I've tried several builds between 0.1 to .2 ohms (set at between 12 - 14 watts / 450 degrees). I've done contact and non-contact coils and tried both the Rose v2 and the Squape Reloaded which both produce the same result. I think this is an issue with the software because other people seem to be experiencing similar issues. The one other possibility is that I don't have the "right" nickel wire. I'm basically using 99.9% pure nickel wire which to me should be the same as the NI200 sold by Temco (I got mine from Lightning Vapes to build NR-R coils for the Diver) but maybe I'm missing something.

Anyone experience this issue or have any suggestions? Much appreciated, thanks!

Had this issue for many weeks when I first got my flask. After pointers from many forum and facebook flask users, I realized i missed an important step when building nickel coils.

You have to only select "new coil" option when the attie is completely cool. It uses that as a baseline. When you select "new coil" right after building a coil and the coil is slightly warm, it registers a wrong base line and any little increase in temp will cause the limiter to kick in.

After building your coil, let it rest for 10 - 15 mins before placing it on the flask and selecting "new coil".

After i started doing that, it has been performing flawlessly.

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